Coat



Jan. 14, 1941. L. KAISER 2,228,911

COAT

Filed July 22, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR.

Leo Kaiser Aqeut L. KAISER Jan. 14, 1941.

COAT

Filed July 22, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VENTOR.

Leo kwilser mm Patented Jan. 14, 1941 PATENT OFFICE COAT Leo Kaiser, NewYork, N. Y., assignor to Mavest Inc, New York, N. Y.

Application July 22, 1939, Serial No. 285,833

'7 Claims.

This invention relates to an outer garment, such as a topcoat orovercoat.

The principal object of the invention is to arrange and connect theseveral parts entering into the garment construction as to successfullywithstand the tendency to produce a distortion or mal-fitting of thegarment when in use.

It is a further object of the invention to prevent the forming of bulgesor other visible distortions on the fronts of garments, especiallytopcoats or overcoats made of gabardine or gabardine-like material. Suchmaterial when wet forms along stitching lines bulges due to differentshrinkage of the fabric fronts and the facings associated with saidfabric fronts. One reason for this is that usually the facings areattached along all sides to the fabric fronts and thus the bulges occurdue to different shrinkage of the material. Furthermore, stitching linesare distorting the unwrinkled appearance of coats, es-

pecially when made of gabardine, When such coats become wet in a rain.Several attempts have been made to overcome the above difficulty, but sofar none of these have been entirely suc- 5 cessful.

It is therefore a further object of this invention to finish off thelongitudinal front edges of coats made of gabardine when these coats aremade without lining at its lower parts in a manner as to prevent thementioned bulges and distortions as well as to prevent the edges fromturning out when worn.

It is still a further object of the invention to provide for in anovercoat or topcoat two longi- 5 tudinal facings associated with thefabric fronts along their longitudinal edges, and one or more lines ofstitching substantially adjacent said longitudinal front edgesconnecting each facing to the respective fabric front, said line orlines of stitching being the sole longitudinal connecting means betweenthe facing and the respective fabric front, leaving the surface and thelongitudinal inner edge portions of said facing free, and formingthereby an inwardly facing pocketlike channel between each facing andthe respective fabric front.

Another object of the invention is to provide novel and improved meansfor finishing off the free edges of such coats which will be simple inconstruction, which might be done economically and conveniently, andwhich will be highly efficient for carrying out the purposes for whichit is designed.

With the foregoing and other objects in view,

which will appear as the description proceeds,

the invention consists in certain novel features of construction,arrangement and combination of parts, hereinafter more fully described,illustrated in the accompanying drawings and particularly pointed out inthe appended claims, it being understood that various changes in theform, proportion, size and minor details of the structure may be madewithout departing from the spirit or sacrificing any of the advantagesof the invention.

For the purpose of facilitating an understanding of the invention, inthe accompanying drawings a preferred embodiment thereof is illustrated,from an inspection of which when considered in connection with thefollowing description, the invention, its mode of construction, assemblyand operation, and many of its advantages should be readily understoodand appreciated.

Referring to the drawings in which the same characters of reference areemployed to indicate corresponding or similar parts throughout theseveral figures of the drawings:

Figure 1 is a plan View of a fragmentary portion of the inside of thecoat constructed in accordance with the invention,

Figure 2 is a sectional view taken on line 2-4 of Figure 1,

Figure 3 is a view in perspective of the coat, portions thereof beingopened for the purpose of illustrating the same more fully, and

Figure 4 is a sectional view taken on line l-4 of Fig. 1. 7

Referring to the drawings more specifically by characters of reference,the numeral I0 designates the body of the coat, II the fabric fronts ofthe coat, and I2 two longitudinal facings, associated with the fabricfronts I I along their longitudinal edges [3. The facings l2 may be madeof the same fabric as the outer fabric material of the fronts ll. Theymay be also made of one piece with the lower portions of the coat lapelsM, in which case said lapels M are formed by turning back the upperedges I5 of said facings l2.

As shown in the drawings the invention may be adapted with advantageespecially for coats made without lining at their lower parts [6. Inthis case it is especially important to finish off. the freelongitudinal edges 13 of the coat fronts H as to prevent the forming ofbulges and also to prevent the front edges from turning out when worn.As shown in the drawings the formation of bulges is prevented bysecuring the longitudinal facings to the fabric fronts only by the linesof stitching and 26 substantially adjacent said longitudinal front edgesI3. The lines of stitching 25 and 26 are the sole longitudinalconnecting means between the facings I2 and the respective fabric frontsII, leaving the surface and the inner longitudinal edge portions I8 ofthe facings free; the facings I2 form thereby an inwardly facingpocket-like channel I9 between each facing I2 and the respective fabricfront II, as shown in Figures 2 and 3. It may be noted that when wornthe facing I2 lies flat as shown in Figures 1 and 2 and forms no openpocket-like channel as shown in Figure 3.

By eliminating further lines of stitching or other securing meansconnecting the facing I2 with the coat fronts II inside their surface oralong their inner edges I8, formation of bulges or distortion of theouter surface of the coat by stitching lines is prevented.

As shown in the drawings it is of advantage to provide the coat withfacings I2 of a small width i. e. of a width of less than five inches asto prevent the same from turning out when worn. The facings I2 extendfrom a line adjacent the shoulders, preferably from the lapels I5,downwardly toward the bottoms 25 of the respective fronts II.

Between the fabric fronts II and the facings I2 facing linings 2| areinterposed, each of said linings having substantially the shape of therespective facings I2 and extending from at least the coat pocket 22downwardly toward the bottom 20 of the facing.

As shown in Fig. 4 each of the facings I2 and facing linings 2I may besecured by lines of stitching to the pocket 22. In the same way they mayalso be secured to the upper lining 2d of the coat. The means forsecuring the faclugs and linings to the upper lining 24 aresubstantially the same as the means for securing them to the pockets 22and are therefore not shown. It may be pointed out that the facings I2made in accordance with the present invention may also be used withoutfacing linings 2I or canvas linings 23; if no facing linings H areprovided for, the facing I2 is fixed by the line of stitching 30directly to pocket 22.

Between the facings I2 and said linings 2| canvas fronts 23 areinterposed, each canvas front 23 extending from a line adjacent theshoulder downwardly toward the bottom of the respective facing I2 andlining 2|, said canvas fronts 23 being secured by stitching at theirupper part to the upper lining 24 of the coat.

A line of stitching 25 may be provided immediately adjacent the freelongitudinal front edge I3 of the front II connecting thereby the facingI2 to the respective front II. Substantially adjacent to saidlongitudinal front edge I3 and immediately adjacent to the line ofstitching 25 one or more additional lines of stitching 25 may beprovided for connecting the facing I2, lining 2| and canvas front 23 tothe respective fabric front II. Along the inner longitudinal edge I8 ofthe facing I2 another line of stitching 21 may be provided in order toconnect each lining 2i only to the respective facing I2,

Thus the lines of stitching 25 and 26, substantially adjacent to thelongitudinal front edges I3, are the sole longitudinal connecting meansbetween the facing, lining, canvas and the respective fabric fronts,leaving the surfaces and the inner longitudinal edge portions 18 of thefacing parts unsecured to said fabric fronts II, and forming thereby aninwardly facing pocket-like channels I9 between each facing and therespective fabric front as shown in Figures 2 and 3.

As shown in Figure 2 the canvas fronts 23 end between the facings I2 andthe linings 2I before the stitching line 21, leaving thereby the innerlongitudinal edges 28 of said canvas fronts free; in this way theforming of bulges by different shrinkage of the canvas and the othermaterials stitched together, i. e. the fabric or lining material, isprevented.

At the bottom 20 of the coat fronts II one or more lines of stitching 29may be provided substantially adjacent the bottom edge of the coat inorder to secure the facings, linings, and canvas fronts to therespective fabric fronts.

The present coat will, of course, be constructed with the usual armholes, sleeves, collar, pockets, and other desired features, with noneof which this invention is especially concerned.

In this construction no extra parts are added, nor is in any way theconstruction of the garment bulged out, but only the usual elementswhich are necessary and desirable for its correct fitting andsatisfactory service are retained.

In the preceding description it is preferred to connections of stitchingwhich are common at the present time, but obviously any other form ofconnection which is equally serviceable might be substituted.

It is believed that the invention, its mode of construction andassembly, and many of its advantages should be readily understood fromthe foregoing without further description, and it should also bemanifest that while a preferred embodiment of the invention has beenshown and described for illustrative purposes, the structural detailsare nevertheless capable of wide variation within the purview of theinvention as defined in the following claims.

I claim:

1. In an overcoat a collar, a lining in the upper portion of said coat,two fabric fronts, two iongitudinal facings associated with the fabricfronts along their longitudinal edges, and one or more lines ofstitching substantially adjacent said longitudinal front edgesconnecting each facing to the respective fabric front, said line orlines of stitching being the sole longitudinal connecting means betweenthe facings and the respective fabric fronts, said facings extendingfrom a line adjacent the shoulder downwardly toward the bottom of therespective front, and lines of stitching connecting said facings to thecollar, the lining in'the upper part of the coat, the pocket and thebottom edge of the respective fronts, leaving the surface and the innerlongitudinal edge portions of said facing free between said pockets andsaid bottom edges and forming thereby between said pockets and saidbottom edges inwardly facing pocket-like channels between said facingsand said fabric fronts.

2. In an overcoat two fabric fronts, a pocket in each of said fabricfronts substantially spaced from the bottom of said fronts, tw'olongitudinal facings associated with the fabric fronts along theirlongitudinal edges, facing linings between said fabric fronts and saidfacings, said lining having substantially the shape of said facings andextending at least from the pockets downwardly toward the bottom of theassociated facings, a line of stitching substantially adjacent saidlongitudinal front edges connecting each facing and lining to therespective fabric front, said line of stitching being the solelongitudinal connecting means between the facing, the lining and therespective fabric front, and another line of stitching connecting eachlining only to the respective facing adjacent their inner longitudinaledges, leaving the surface and the inner longitudinal edge portions ofsaid fa'cings free and forming thereby an inwardly facing pocketlikechannel between each facing lining and the respective fabric front.

3. In an overcoat two fabric fronts, a pocket in each of said fabricfronts substantially spaced from the bottom of said fronts, twolongitudinal facings associated with said fabric fronts along theirlongitudinal edges, facing linings between the fabric fronts and thefacings, said linings having substantially the shape of said facings andbeing secured by lines of stitching at its upper edge to the pocket ofthe coat and at its lower edge to the bottom edge of the fabric frontand facing, a line of stitching substantially adjacent said longitudinalfront edges connecting each facing and lining to the respective fabricfront, said line of stitching being the sole longitudinal connectingmeans between the facing, the lining and the respective fabric front,and another line of stitching connecting each lining only to therespective facing adjacent their inner longitudinal edges, leaving thesurface and the inner 1ongitudinal edge portions of said facings andlinings free between the coat pockets and the bottom edges of the coat.

4. In an overcoat two fabric fronts, a pocket in each of said fabricfronts substantially spaced from the bottom of said fronts, twolongitudinal facings associated with said fabric fronts along theirlongitudinal edges, facing lining between said fabric fronts and said.facings, each of said linings having substantially the shape of therespective facing and extending from at least the pockets downwardlytoward the bottom of said facings, canvas fronts between said facingsand said linings, each extending from a line adjacent the shoulderdownwardly toward the bottom of the respective facing and lining,securing means substantially adjacent said longitudinal front edgesconnecting the respective facings, facing linings and canvas fronts tothe respective fabric fronts, said securing means being the solelongitudinal connecting means between the facing, the lining, the canvasand the respective fabric front, leaving the surface and the innerlongitudinal edge portion of said falcings unsecured to said fabricfronts and forming thereby an inwardly facing pocket-like channelbetween each facing and the respective fabric front.

5. In an overcoat two fabric fronts, a pocket in each of said fabricfnonts substantially spaced from the bottom of said fronts, twolongitudinal facings associated with said fabric fronts along theirlongitudinal edges, facing linings between said fabric fronts and saidfacings, each of said linings having substantially the shape of therespective facings and extending from at least the pocket downwardlytoward the bottom of the facings, canvas fronts between said facings andsaid linings, each canvas front extending from a line adjacent theshoulder downwardly toward the bottom of the respective facing andlining, one or more lines of stitching substantially adjacent saidlongitudinal front edges connecting the respective facings, facinglinings and canvas fronts to the respective fabric fronts, said line orlines of stitching being the sole longitudinal connecting means betweenthe facing, the lining, the canvas and the respective fabric front, andanother line of stitching connecting each lining only to the respectivefacing adjacent their inner longitudinal edges, said canvas frontsending between said facings and linings before said stitching lineconnecting the facing and lining, leaving thereby the inner longitudinaledges of said canvas fronts free.

6. In an overcoalt two fabric fronts, a ocket in each of said fabricfronts substantially spaced from the bottom of said fronts, twolongitudinal felcings associated with the fabric fronts along theirlongitudinal edges, said facings extending at least from the pocketsdownwardly toward the bottom of the fabric fronts, at least one line ofstitching substantially adjacent said longitudinal front edgesconnecting each facing to the respective fabric front and seeming meansconnecting each facing only to a pocket and the bottom edge of therespective front, leaving the surface and the inner longitudinal edgeportions of said facings free between said pockets and said bottomedges, and forming thereby between said pockets and said bottom edgesinwardly facing pocket-like channels between said facings and saidfabric fronts.

'7. In an overcoat two fabric fronts, a lining in the upper portion ofsaid coat, two longitudinal facings associated with said fabric frontsalong their longitudinal edges, said facings extending at least from thelining in the upper portion of said coat downwardly toward the bottomedges of the fabric fronts, at least one line of stitching substantiallyadjacent said longitudinal front edges, connecting each facing to therespective fabric front, and securing means connecting each facing onlyto said lining and'to the respective bottom edge, the inner longitudinaledge portions of said facings being free between said lining and saidbottom edges, forming thereby between said lining and said bottom edgesinwardly facing pocket-like channels between said facings and saidfabric fronts.

LEO KAISER.

